Our pets can bring us great joy as well as a tremendous amount of frustration. They look at us with adoring eyes that makes us melt and then they sneak around the corner just out of eyesight and pee. I run across urine situations every day with my carpet cleaning in Boulder business. There are several options in treating urine stains depending on the severity of the urine problem. In this article we will look at treating three different stages of urine contamination. Stage one constitutes an occasional mishap and mistake.
Most pets will have an occasional accident where they either get excited or just can't hold it. Every pet owner should have a bottle of pet enzyme on hand even if their pet never has accidents. Make sure that the enzyme is free of soap and oxidizers. Soap will lock the stain in and oxidizers can damage the carpet dye and leave you with discoloration. If you are present when the pet urine stain occurs, blot the stain first and absorb as much as you can into a paper towel or other absorbent material. You can weigh the towels down with a heavy book and leave it for twenty minutes or so. After removing as much urine as you can simply spray your enzyme down and walk away. Your enzyme will need up to 24 hours of dwell time to complete its' process. The enzyme will eat the urine and tiny bacteria will keep reproducing the enzymes until they dry and die. Spray the stain again if needed but never spray the enzyme and then wipe it up. Wiping the enzyme up will remove it and keep it from working.
Stage two urine contamination's is when the pet has been sneaking around and peeing in areas that you didn't know about. You will need to determine how long that this has been going on and if the staining is overwhelming you may need to skip ahead to stage three. Stage two urine contamination's may require the use of a professional carpet cleaner. If the urine is just in the carpet fibers and not in the carpet pad, you may be able to treat the carpet thoroughly with a pet enzyme and inject the carpet backing with a hyperemic needle. This will allow the enzyme the chance to feast on the urine in the carpet backing. This will not work for cat urine.
Carpets that have been exposed to heavy doses of urine over a long period of time may need to be replaced. At the very least the carpet padding should be removed and replaced. The subfloor should also be cleaned and sealed with Kilz or Bins so that the urine is locked into the wood or concrete and not able to wick or rise back through the new pad. The carpet backing should now be sprayed heavily with enzyme. If it is heavily concentrated cat urine we recommend that you rip all the pad and carpet out and then clean and seal the subfloor. Cats will urinate along walls in copious amounts that will infiltrate and become locked in the carpet glue that holds the two carpet layers together.
If the enzyme destroys the pet odor but leaves a slight stain you can spray Pros Choice Urine Stain Remover on it and it will safely take Hydrogen Peroxide and bleach the stain out safely without damaging the carpet fibers. Their product will work for about 6 hours and then it will self-neutralize. If you do use this product read the directions and wear gloves or the peroxide can burn your fingers. This product will not help with the urine odor but it will normally remove the stain.